Checklists. So many checklists.
As Christmas crept closer and the push to make the jump to the Bahamas grew more pressing, the list of things that needed to get done seemed to double in size every day. Repairs, routine maintenance, provisioning runs, laundry, Christmas shopping, and all the “nice-to-have” items we’d want over the next five months. Adding to the stress and time crunch, I had to fly to NYC for a 36-hour whirlwind trip to do an emergency passport renewal. While I was there, I stocked up on enough coffee for the rest of the trip (40 pounds), squeezed in time with friends, and tackled some last-minute Christmas shopping.
Once back in Palm Beach, it was time to get serious. Each day was laid out with military efficiency. Early mornings, late nights, and checklists that slowlyyy, started to get shorter.
I tackled my first oil change and removed and fully cleaned the Racor filters. It wasn’t an overly complicated task, but when you’re doing something for the first time, mostly self-taught, and a mistake could delay the entire trip, your nervous system treats it like brain surgery. I was proud when it was done, but I didn’t celebrate just yet. With a big crossing ahead, I wouldn’t truly relax until we were safely across and the engines hadn’t blown up!
Provisioning is a task I do not love. I would rather be in a hot engine room, elbows deep in oil, than making a food list for four months. And the list is only the beginning. The strategic shopping, making sure you don’t overbuy for the space available, hauling everything back to the boat, and then figuring out where it all goes. It’s both a science and an art. As I write this, we’re just over one month post provisioning, and I’ve only needed grocery runs for fresh produce, milk, and eggs. The freezer and dry stores are still very full, which feels like a small miracle.
Spending Christmas in the Bahamas meant remembering all the holiday details well before our October departure. Stockings, a tree, decorations, special meals. Yes, we could have made do without them, but having those familiar touches made the holidays feel extra special, especially while more than a thousand miles away from land home.
As the boat became more organized and the lists were nearly checked off, we saw a weather window beginning to open toward the end of the week. It wasn’t perfect, but as with many things in life, you can’t wait for perfect. The forecast shifted slightly each day, and we reassessed constantly. On Thursday night, the evening before our hoped-for crossing, we lashed everything down and prepped for a sunrise departure. I don’t think we made it to bed until after midnight.
Friday morning, December 19th, came early. I barely slept. My mind wouldn’t stop running through all the ways I could have messed up the oil change. I dreamed of rogue squalls and hundred-foot waves. Classic focus sharpening anixiety. I’ve worked on boats before and made much larger open-ocean passages, but this was the first time I was truly in charge, carrying real responsibility. That alone ups the nerves. Add in the fact that the people you’re responsible for are the ones you love most, and it’s no wonder my brain wouldn’t shut off.With that said, I’ve learned that these uncomfortable moments often come right before a deep sense of accomplishment.
As we exited the Palm Beach Inlet at 6:45 a.m., it all became very real. The sun was just rising, the kids were still asleep, and the vast blue Atlantic stretched out in front of us. The distance from Palm Beach to the Bahamas isn’t actually that long. About 55 nautical miles to West End. For us it’s a relatively short day. The Gulf Stream is what makes that short hop something not to be taken lightly.
The Gulf Stream is a formidable force that demands respect. If you don’t pay attention to the weather, it can eat you alive. If you time it right, it’s as tame as a kitten. Flowing north at an average of about 3.5 knots, sometimes closer to 5, it creates two challenges. Navigation requires adjusting your heading significantly south to end up where you want to go, and wind direction plays a huge role. Any north component to the wind can quickly turn the sea state ugly. After days of northerlies, it can be downright brutal. Timing is everything.
That day, the seas were rolly. Not unsafe, just a little uncomfortable. I’ll never forget peeking down into the saloon to check on the boys and seeing the Christmas tree rocking wildly, while “Rockin’ Around the Christmas Tree” played in my head. I don’t think I’ll ever hear that song again without picturing our little tree thrashing through the Gulf Stream. We were grateful for that earlier passage from Atlantic City to Cape May. It taught us exactly what needed to be secured or bolted down!
The boys handled it well. Ben slept through most of the crossing. Theo hit Nanook’s top speed ever while surfing down a wave at the helm. A hair-on-fire 12.9 knots!! Thats fast for this stout trawler!
We saw land just after noon.
Back in September 2024, I had ordered a Bahamas courtesy flag online. It’s the flag you fly once you’ve cleared customs and are officially checked in. Buying it was symbolic. A tiny first step, but a tangible reminder that this goal was real and achievable. And once we had the flag, we had to do it. There was no turning back.
We docked at the marina in West End, and Adam took all our paperwork in to clear customs. When he returned with our approved cruising permit and travel visas, it was time. We raised the flag.
We did it.
Our goal accomplished and our newest adventure was just beginning!
