Guest Blog Post! Exuma trip with Ghee and Poppy
What could be more welcome after a brutally cold February, complete with record-breaking snowfall? An invitation to the Bahamas, of course! When first discussing the trip, we were looking at different island accommodations—Adam suggested we stay with them aboard Nanook. It proved not only to be the best choice, but one we will always treasure.
It started with the kind of blue you don’t quite believe is real. Not the soft blue of a summer sky at home, but a brighter, deeper, layered in a hundred shades where the ocean stretches endlessly and the horizon seems to dissolve into light. That was the view out my window as we landed in Georgetown for a much needed escape from the Arctic tundra we had experienced for thirty days prior.
We arrived at the Exuma Yacht Club with all our gear and grabbed a quick lunch before hopping into their trusty red Zodiac for a very wet ride across to Stocking Island, where Nanook was anchored. As we pulled up to the transom, I couldn’t help but think of the last time I saw her leaving Newport Harbor that chilly October morning, and the miles she had faithfully sheltered them over the previous months.
Our first evening was spent catching up and enjoying the surroundings over a delicious meal prepared by Chef de Cuisine, Lauren. Exhausted from a day of travel, we turned in early to be ready for the day ahead.
By sunup, we were ready for adventure. The boys were eager to show us the island, and we headed by Zodiac to a fun little beach aptly named “The Coconut Club.” It was an idyllic spot, full of games and every kind of floating contraption you could imagine. The boys had me climbing the floating rock wall right away. I still have the bruises to prove it. Theo was eager to show me how much his swimming had improved, I think there’s definitely a Save the Bay swim in his future!
Ben agreed to take me to the top of Stocking Island for the views. I asked if I needed my flip-flops, and the answer was, “Nah.” Well, for anyone planning that hike, bring your flip-flops, or better yet, hiking shoes. The trails were narrow and sandy, with the occasional Lego-like surprise underfoot just to keep things interesting.
The trail brought us to the open windward side of the island, where the ocean views were incredible and the water was rough and dramatic. From the top, we counted roughly 100 boats in the anchorage and got a great view of the good ship Nanook. We sat on the small bench there and talked about the Bahamas for a bit. The Exumas are a stunning chain of over 300 islands and cays, known for crystal-clear water, white sand beaches, and a laid-back pace. Think the opposite of Second Beach in the summer. What made it so special was the sense of space. Even on a busier island, there was always room to be alone.
I never expected to see as much as we did, but Lauren and Adam are adventurers, and each day brought us somewhere new. The following day, they took us to Rudder Cut Cay, famously known for the underwater mermaid playing a stainless steel baby grand piano. The sculpture was commissioned by David Copperfield and placed near his private island, Musha Cay. Ben dove down to the piano with Adam while the rest of us free dove above it. The fish were plentiful, and the colors were breathtaking.
After a full day of snorkeling, diving, and beach exploring, we pulled anchor at sunset and headed to Staniel Cay. One might wonder how homeschooling works in a setting like this, but it blends seamlessly into daily life. Some days the boys have tutors and other days they are given specific assignments, but each day learning is blended in with daily life at a pace that compliments learning and comprehension of what is being taught. Ben can be found just about anywhere with a book or a Kindle. Theo can show you around Nanook and explain what all the controls and electronics in the bridge are for. Not to mention his knowledge of the engine room, or the Starlink that allows for constant contact anywhere. The boys contribute in almost every way aboard Nanook whether it be maintenance, chores, or watch duty during storms. The pace compliments learning in a way I wish more kids could experience.
The next day we spent time at Cruisers Beach off Staniel Cay, where I collected conch shells between water activities. There is a nearby beach known as Pig Beach, where tourists swim with pigs. It was a hard pass for me, I would prefer swimming with sharks before getting in the water with PIGS. Although, I must say the newly born piglets were as cute as can be.
We had lunch at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, which was bustling with sailors of all ages and nationalities. The hanging burgees above the pool table are a testament to its long-standing connection with the yachting community. Lunch was tasty. Local mahi, conch salad, and fritters fueled us for another afternoon on the water.
Lauren and I stopped at the local grocer for provisions and visited the nearby dive shop. Prices are higher in the Bahamas due to shipping, but we never had trouble finding what we needed. Lauren runs a tight ship in the galley. Everything has its place, and every meal is both nutritious and delicious. While restaurants are limited in the Exumas, we found ourselves preferring quiet dinners aboard Nanook after long days in the sun and sea.
I looked forward to falling asleep on the boat as she gently rocked us, the sounds of the water slapping the hull lent a rhythmic beat that helped me fall into a deep sleep each night.
Mornings were met with extra feet in the bed where we discussed the days adventures. Ben and Theo loved Thunderball Grotto where parts of the James Bond film “Thunderball” was filmed in 1964. They insisted that we go check it out too. We dropped the hook outside the Grotto and snorkeled in. The marine life was exactly as you would imagine, majestic blues, yellows and the occasional rainbow fish. We saw a few rays and nurse sharks but mostly beautiful reef fish of every color imaginable.
At sun up we ate breakfast and gathered our things to go in by zodiac to Cambridge Cay. It was stunning. At the trailhead to the ocean side, there are bins for collecting debris washed up on the beach. Unfortunately, we gathered quite a bit of plastic—reminders of how far debris can travel. It was high tide, so we couldn’t climb the large rock formations, but the scenery was beautiful nonetheless.
Later, we headed to O’Brien’s Cay, part of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, and home to a popular snorkeling site known as “The Aquarium.” It is abundant with fish and a vibrant coral reef. The fish here were absolutely beautiful and sooo many! There is often a strong current, so timing is important. We spent the afternoon swimming, snorkeling, and exploring the beach. I actually swam across to another Cay with Theo that we had all to ourself. We aptly named it Ghee and Thee Cay, and it will be forever ours for eternity. Later, Lauren and Ben swam over with Poppy we reveled in the beauty around us before packing it in for the day.
The following day, Adam took us south to Farmer’s Cay. We anchored and took the zodiac to the beach where it was another day of water activities and swimming with the boys. We decided to take the boys to swim with the Loggerhead turtles on the other side of the Cay which they loved. We bought some art from local vendors and walked back to the beach where we had some cold drinks and played torpedo with the boys in the water. I could never tire of this water. It’s so inviting and clear, it will be tough to go back to down jackets and boots.
After the boys finished their schoolwork, we continued south to Rat Cay, known for its secluded beaches and excellent snorkeling. Navigating through the cuts can be challenging, but Lauren and Adam worked seamlessly together, and we arrived safely in time to explore yet another quiet beach.
One thing that stood out throughout the trip was the teamwork required to live aboard a boat. Lauren and Adam move effortlessly between roles. Navigation, helm, engine work, anchoring. It was incredible to witness a dream that took years of planning come to life. Boats are meant to travel, and it was a pleasure to see Nanook doing exactly that.
Our final day was spent relaxing aboard before loading into the Zodiac and heading to Barraterre for the taxi to Georgetown Airport. The only good part about leaving was that we got to bring the boys back with us. As much as it hurt to say goodbye to the Bahamas and Lauren and Adam, it took a bit of the sting out by having another week in Newport with Ben and Theo. It also gave Lauren and Adam some well deserved alone time together.
As I reflect back on this trip, I’m so grateful for the amount of traveling we did, the meals shared, the laughs and the quality family time together. We would never have seen as much of the Bahamas had we decided on different accommodations. It’s safe to say we will be back one day. Hopefully, together on a boat.
-Ghee
